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“For years, seeing Fairy Meadows was a dream. Many times, I got lost in the interpretation of this dream. Fairy Meadows had been a desire expressed by many of my colleagues and friends. Everyone invited me with sincerity. When I asked my well-known traveler brother, Ghulam Nabi, he replied, ‘Rakhiot is your home, whenever you wish, stand up and leave.’ Anyway, on July 2, 2023, I made my dream come true by visiting Fairy Meadows with my friend Hayat.

Before Eidul Adha, I had already decided to visit the valley of Fairy Meadows, which is famous for its beautiful landscapes, snow-capped peaks, flowing water, boiling springs, enchanting hills, dense forests, and spread of lush greenery. In particular, sites like Fairy Meadows, Phungitori (Funtori), Bayal Camp (Bayalaa), Glacier View Point, German View Point, and Base Camp (Sagher) offer some of the most beautiful moments of life.

Departure from Gilgit:

Tourism has now become a complete industry. Traveling to an international tourist destination was not only challenging but also not easy during this commercial tourism era. Nevertheless, we were determined, and under the guidance of our student Saifur Rahman, we set out for Gilgit to reach Rakhiot Bridge. At Rakhiot Bridge, Rahmat Mir, our host, was waiting for us. He parked our motorbike in his yard and respectfully seated us in a jeep. Gilgit-Karimabad road is approximately 14 kilometers long. We covered this distance in about two hours. To be honest, it felt like we were driving on a bridge on the Sirat (bridge to heaven). Drivers who drive on this road are undoubtedly courageous people; otherwise, people like us would lose their lives.

Jeep Stop, Jail (Gilgit):

Fairy Meadows site comprises eleven villages where people reside temporarily during the winter. The first village is Rakhiot Tatu. Tatu has a hot spring where the water is so hot that potatoes are cooked within five minutes. People also stay in Tatu during winters. There is a primary school in Tatu, which is semi-government and built by a university in Lahore. The government of Gilgit-Baltistan has constructed a building as a token of its commitment. We crossed Tatu and headed towards the next village, Jail. Jail is only accessible on foot from the jeep stop. There used to be dense forests in Jail. The floods and enemies have now eradicated those dense forests. In the Shina language, forests are called Jail, which is why the village is named Jail. As soon as we got off the jeep stop, our host Saifur Rahman was waiting for us. He took our belongings, and we set off. We crossed Pegondi Bridge from the jeep stop, and he arranged a cup of hot tea at Fairy Point Hotel. We had hired a horse-cart to reach Fairy Meadows. We conversed with several foreign tourists at the jeep stop, including some women from Thailand who spoke quite fluently in English. Bighearted people they are; they chatted and laughed. Some of us stayed for a while at Fairy Meadows, while others went back to the jeep stop.

Jeep Stop to Fairy Meadows: Two Tracks

Saifur Rahman said, ‘I have just arrived at Fairy Meadows, came via Phungitori Road. To reach Fairy Meadows from the jeep stop, there are two tracks. One is a pedestrian track from Phungitori, which is a short route but quite steep and high. The other track goes along with the river to the Nanga Parbat jungle, which Brigadier Aslam had constructed to transport wood from Raikot to Gilgit. The road no longer exists, but it serves as a pedestrian track for tourists. All tourists take this track, so we decided to go through it as well. He said it would take about two and a half hours, but we reached Fairy Meadows in exactly five hours. Despite severe exhaustion, we felt relaxed upon reaching Fairy Meadows.

Three to Four Days Before Leaving for Fairy Meadows, I had informed my classmate (Fellow) Barkatullah about the plan. He also expressed his delight. The day before, I also shared the plan of going to Fairy Meadows with my brother, Rahmat Nabi, who owns Raikot Serai. He too was happy about it. In any case, we set off for Fairy Meadows from the jeep stop, passing through Kamran and Hazrat Musa’s tea houses.

Meeting Two Englishmen on the Way

We met two young Englishmen at Kamran’s tea house. One was a medical sciences student, and the other was an electrical engineering student. They had come to see Fairy Meadows and Nanga Parbat. After a brief rest at Hanza, we continued our journey back to Fairy Meadows.”

Please note that the translation might not be perfect as Urdu and English have different linguistic structures, and some context-specific meanings might be lost in translation. However, I’ve tried to convey the essence of the text as accurately as possible.

Qari Rahmatullah’s Offer and Our Plan

We got in touch with Qari Rahmatullah, the owner of Fairy Meadow Cottages, and expressed our desire to meet if he was in Rai Kot. Though he was not in Rai Kot at the time, he generously offered us to stay at his house since we were with our family. Alternatively, he suggested staying at Fairy Meadow Cottages with meals provided. He also instructed his nephew and our host, Saifur Rahman, to arrange the accommodation for Molvi Amir Jan Haqani.

Our host had arranged our stay at Broadview Hotel. Our initial plan was to spend one day at Broadview, one day at Barkatullah’s I-Box Lodge, and one day at Fairy Meadow Cottages. However, due to Barkatullah’s final decision, we had to spend our entire stay at Fairy Meadow Lodge.

Rai Kot is divided into two parts: Tatoo and Methat, both of which are sizable villages

Both Tatoo and Methat are part of the larger area called Goharabad. Among them, one is known as Rai Kot Tatoo, while the other is called Rai Kot Methat. They are actually two branches of the Goharabad stream and are inhabited by people who keep livestock, especially during spring and summer. In winters, they shift to warmer areas like Gunner Farm, Dern, Gilgit, and Chilas.

For the first time, I had a glimpse of Fairy Meadows and thought it was a beautiful sight. There are eleven villages in Fairy Meadows site, including Tatoo, Jail (where the jeep stop is located), Bezar, Free, Jut (Fairy Meadow), Phangturi (Funturi), Do Noo Batheret, Watar, Beala (Beal Camp), and Khere Bealah. Each of these villages has its mosque, totaling eleven mosques. Fairy Meadows is especially known for the presence of Tablighi Jamaat members.

In Rai Kot Tatoo, seven clans reside, known as the Hatyay:

Nagray, Resay, Lowaye, Naqibe, Khanoay, Jargaday, and Hujatay. These clans own the lands of Rai Kot and divide the important locations among themselves. However, the forests of Rai Kot belong to the whole of Goharabad. Fairy Meadows site, Rai Kot, is inhabited by the Shin tribe. In Bezar, the Gujjar community also has a significant presence. Rai Kot Methat is inhabited by the Yashkun tribe. Each Tatoo and Methat have their Union Council seats. Local elections have not taken place for the past twenty years, and these areas are deprived of these seats as well.

At Broadview Hotel, we had lunch at around 3:00 PM. Saifur Rahman had arranged a Chicken Karahi with spinach, lentils, and cornbread for us. Despite exhaustion and hunger, we thoroughly enjoyed the local dish. I recommend that tourists visiting from other parts of the country should try the local dish consisting of spinach, cornbread, and lentils, which is unique to Gilgit-Baltistan. Fairy Meadows hotel management should consider making this dish a permanent menu item for national and international tourists. The locals can cultivate the ingredients and earn a livelihood while the tourists get to taste a unique dish. After lunch, we planned to take some rest, and later, we witnessed a mesmerizing view from the hotel’s viewpoint. We could see Nanga Parbat’s peak, Nanga Parbat Glacier, dense forests, flowing rivers, and a clear blue sky. The beauty we beheld cannot be adequately expressed in words.

In this serene moment, we remembered that we had to meet Jirga member Barkatullah today as well.

Magical Meadows: A Journey to Fairyland and Nanga Parbat

At the Broad View Hotel, a delightful lunch was served at 3 o’clock in the afternoon. Saifur Rahman had arranged a sumptuous meal of Chicken Karahi with Spinach, Lassi, and Makai ki Roti. Hunger and fatigue were quickly forgotten as we relished this local delicacy. This unique dish from Gilgit-Baltistan is loved by every household, though it’s a rarity in cities, easily available in rural areas. The hotel management of Fairy Meadows should include Spinach, Makai, and Lassi as a permanent local dish for national and international tourists. This would not only support local farmers but also offer a unique experience for the visitors.

After lunch, we planned to relax for a while and then headed towards the viewpoint to witness the beauty of Nanga Parbat, Nanga Parbat Glacier, dense forests, flowing streams, and the clear blue sky. The sight of Nanga Parbat and Raikot Glacier left us speechless, unable to express the beauty we beheld.

Nature had adorned herself with a thousand colors. Today, nature presented all her charms before us. During this magical moment, Saifur Rahman announced that we would go to Fairy Meadows Ground, and return in the evening. I mentioned that I must meet the caretaker, Barkatullah, and Saifur Rahman agreed to accompany me.

We made our way to Fairy Meadows Ground, crossing Brigade Islam’s breathtaking beauty. Before us lay a vast and lush green meadow, dotted with horses, adorable kids, and numerous tourists from different parts of the country, enjoying the natural beauty in blissful oblivion to the world’s chaos. We were also lost in the enchanting views of Fairy Meadows.

We met Barkatullah, the proprietor of I-Baik Lodge, who had recognized us and led us to a spot near the flowing water. There, surrounded by the soothing sound of the stream, we found solace in the serenity of nature. With firewood at the center, we tried to transform the warm day into a cool evening, but the fire was getting hotter. It seemed that the embers gathered to heal the deep wounds of our hearts. Engineer Mir Gul, a dear friend from Lahore, who works in the maintenance department of a multinational company Pepsi, was also present with his family. Some Lahori families were also enjoying the warmth of the fire. I was engrossed in a conversation with them about Fairy Meadows and Raikot.

In this mesmerizing setting, the ever-present power of Nanga Parbat and Fairy Meadows gripped us. Every heart carried profound emotions, and in that sea of feelings, words ceased to exist. Words were inadequate to express the countless thoughts flowing within me. I can only feel, not describe. You too should come and feel nature’s magic, do not attempt to describe it. Nanga Parbat and Fairy Meadows have been witnessed by us from the airplane, but even then, I could only feel it and never dared to express it to anyone.

Fairy Meadows, a pastureland and an open field

The place is a remarkably beautiful and picturesque place situated at an elevated surface. With its natural beauty, it captivates visitors and mountaineers from all over the world who have been coming here since long before the German-American expedition led by Willie Merkl named it “Joot” in 1932. Joot (Fairy Meadows) and the surrounding meadows in Raikot are comparable to each other. Fairy Meadows is located at an altitude of 3300 meters (10827 feet) above sea level. It was so enchanted by this place that it was named Fairy Meadows, which means the abode of fairies. Its original name is “Joot,” but now it is commonly known as Fairy Meadows.

Fairy Meadows is associated with various mythical and folkloric stories from the Deosai Plateau. Before visiting Fairy Meadows, I used to be fascinated by the mythical and folkloric tales of this place found in literature from around the world. However, when I finally entered Fairy Meadows, those legends seemed superficial. Fairy Meadows and its surroundings truly resemble the abode of fairies. The place is surrounded by Nanga Parbat, lush green mountains, cascading waterfalls, and flowing streams with crystal clear water. It’s home to diverse wildlife and dense forests. There is a vast glacier, numerous lakes, extensive greenery, and abundant wildflowers and medicinal plants like pine, juniper, and a variety of fruit-bearing trees and herbs.

For researchers and scientists interested in botany, forestry, and wildlife, Fairy Meadows and its surroundings serve as a natural laboratory. It contains a wide range of flora and fauna. With its scientific significance, there are ongoing research activities here. Moreover, it attracts people of elegance, romance, and fascination, just like Fairy Meadows itself. However, gathering all these things in one place is impossible. Nature has been infinitely kind to this small region, and the English are not enamored with any other region for no reason. Some secrets are concealed within. During opportune times, one should ponder over these icy waters, which have been flowing for thousands of years, gone insane, and are quenching the world’s thirst. In these snowy and icy waters reside the beloved of millions of fairies. They are linked to Deosai’s folklore, and in these flowing waters, there are thousands of secrets. Each secret and story is a complete tale on its own.”

“Mastansar Hussain Tarar Lake (Tarrar Lake)

On the left and right of Fairy Meadows Ground, there are dense forests. In the center, there is a clear water stream that is flowing towards Fantori. Right at the foot of Fairy Meadows, there is a small lake known as “Sarot,” meaning a tiny lake, and it is also called Tarrar Lake. Mastansar Hussain Tarrar has played a significant role in promoting and exploring the local beauty of Fairy Meadows, Fantori, and Raikot. He wrote a novel-like travelogue on the tourism of Gilgit-Baltistan named “Nanga Parbat,” which includes a travel account of Raikot as well. On our way back from Fantori, Majib took us to visit Tarrar Lake. In one corner of this lake, there is a hole from where the water drains. Local people say that this hole is a man-eater; it has swallowed someone in the past, and it cannot be sealed. Viewing this lake from various angles presents a delightful sight.

Fairy Meadows’ Mosque and Quranic Education

Fairy Meadows also has a mosque, which might not have a name yet. It is a very old mosque. The Nagar family has donated land for both the mosque and a madrasa. I got the opportunity to lead several prayers in this mosque, invite worshippers for discussions on Islamic teachings, and engage in conversations about Islamic education. A beautiful thought struck my mind: if this mosque and the adjacent madrasa were entrusted to me, I would construct a campus for my organization. I have some strange ideas, don’t I? The current Imam of this mosque, Molvi Khalik Jan, is currently involved in building another mosque in Gunner Farm. Moreover, in Fairy Meadows, a female scholar, Benat Ferman Wali, is conducting Quranic education for the children of the neighborhood. People stay in Fairy Meadows with their families for up to six months. However, hotel owners and staff live there from March to November.

The Need for Planned Hotels and a Master Plan in Fairy Meadows

On the left and right of the Fairy Meadows Ground, there are hotels being built one after another. Local people have divided the land, and anyone with financial capacity is constructing a hotel. All the hotels in Fairy Meadows and Raikot are built using wooden material, which is an architectural wonder. From flooring, pillars, walls, roofs, stairs, everything is made from wood, and each hotel I visited showcased the marvel of architecture. The first hotel in Fairy Meadows was established in 1992 by Ghulam Nabi in Raikot Sarai. Afterward, our host Qari Rahmatullah built a cottage in Fairy Meadows. Their initial efforts were for promoting tourism, and the trend continued. Currently, there are eighteen hotels in Fairy Meadows. All these hotels were constructed without proper planning, which has impacted the beauty of Fairy Meadows. A comprehensive master plan should have been developed for the entire Fairy Meadows area. There should have been an association of hotel owners as well, where mutual agreements and community-based cooperation could be established to further enhance tourism in a better way, and regulations should be formulated to ensure no one’s rights are infringed upon, and no individual or group can dictate terms.

Brigadier Aslam’s Land andthe Attitude of the Locals

The most beautiful place on the entire foothills of Fairy Meadows is under the control of Brigadier Aslam. He purchased the Raikot jungle, constructed roads, and transported the forest’s wood. The simple locals gifted him a beautiful ten kanals of land in Fairy Meadows as a token of honor for their local guest. He had documents prepared with fifty kanals mentioned—twenty-five kanals in Fairy Meadows and twenty-five kanals in Biyal Camp. In 2022, when Brigadier Sahib’s other relatives planned to build hotels there, the locals were outraged. People started protesting, and with the help of the administration, they blocked off many expensive lands. However, with an agreement not to provide water and wood, the land was handed over to them. I believe that after a few years, they will also get access to water and wood. The main reason behind this situation is the internal conflicts and jealousy among the locals, which I felt during my visit to Fairy Meadows. Remember that all the barren lands, mountains, and forests of Goharabad belong to the Goharabadis. This ownership was acknowledged by the British government even before the creation of Pakistan. Written treaties and documents are present.”

In Fairy Meadows, we continued to have delightful conversations with various friends and local people during our journey. We had long chats over tea with Barrister Wakil and his companions. The main topic of discussion was “Second Marriage.” His father has also had two marriages. We spent a significant amount of time chatting with a group of young people in their house. They are jovial individuals, and there is a lot of banter among them. Shah Farman, the owner of Diambri Hotel, invited us to his home and humbly served us local dish “Ghee Dudh” (clarified butter milk). Labni also continued to interact with the local women and had various meetings with them. She also showed Labni the traditional grinding machine and took her to visit different houses. We didn’t dare to try horse riding in Fairy Meadows. It felt a bit unfamiliar, and the horses were ready, but we chose not to ride them. Some of our acquaintances who were accompanying us were astonished by seeing us with our family. They said that we were the first ones from Goharabad who had come with our family. Islam did not object, and neither did our elders, but wherever they go, they take their family with them. Many were surprised, but we have to come out and see such artificial things. Director Majid was telling his group’s friends that “Haqani Digital and Roshan Khayal are religious.” In any case, I follow all the permissions and approvals given by Islam regarding life enjoyment, while keeping any local customs, regional peculiarities, self-imposed religious barriers, and restrictions at bay. Many may become targets, but I don’t care. You should also do the same, those that Islam has allowed you to do, don’t impose unnecessary restrictions in the name of Islam.

Travel is like an open university

When a person is overwhelmed by numerous worries, difficulties, troubles, and afflictions, they should embark on a journey. Travel is like an open university, and for illnesses, troubles, and sorrows, it is an open hospital. Whenever I am troubled, I start reading a book, write a column, or go on a journey. And this time, to find solace in my knowledge and observation and to seek a cure for illnesses, troubles, and sorrows, I set out on the journey to Fairy Meadows. And then, to create some memorable moments of life, Fairy Meadows provided every bit of assistance. Fairy Meadows, remember, I will come back, come back again and again. Insha Allah, I will even establish a small campus for my educational institution there. (Continues…)